Thursday, September 16, 2010

Tuna Steaks with Peach Salsa and Crosini











We went shopping again. Lovin' that fresh food. Today we brought home a huge tuna steak and peaches and a nice baguette of sour dough baked only a couple of hours before. Diane wanted to eat fresh peaches but was dismayed that they weren't just so. Which meant--salsa.

Chop up a couple of peaches in little pieces, but not microscopic pieces. You want the visual effect of the fruit and to taste each component of your salsa--so don't get chop-frenzied. Also chop a Roma tomato and half a small Bermuda (red) onion. The onion can be diced a little smaller. If you have cilantro, chop a little bit of that, too. The color will be wonderful and the flavor brilliant. Finely mince a scant half quarter inch slice of ginger. Mash it a bit with your knife. Put all these ingredients into a bowl. Squeeze the juice of half to three quarters of a lime. Save the rest...you may need to make an adjustment.

Add a shot of Sriracha sauce (an Asian chili sauce) or: mince a tiny clove of garlic, mashing it with your knife, about a teaspoon of rice wine vinegar, and a pinch of chili flakes and a tiny, tiny pinch of sea salt.

Also add a scant pinch each of: clove, coriander and cardamom. All the pinches and garlic, ginger, are scant, because we are making a little salsa.

Taste. Always taste, taste, taste. I thought mine needed a little sweet for the sour, so in went a little drizzle of honey. You could use agave nectar.

The objective here is sweet, somewhat acidic, and hot and spicy. Once you taste it, and you realize these three concepts, you can direct your salsa to your own desired specifications. So if you need another shot of lime juice or a hint more heat, go for it.

Now for the tuna. Pan frying or grilling is best, because you do not want to over-cook tuna. Since we are living in an apartment, it was to the skillet! Heat it and add enough olive oil to more than just cover the bottom. At least a coupla tablespoons, depending on the size of your skillet and the amount of tuna you intend to cook. Our steak was so big, I cut it in half before the cooking. But be sure not to overcrowd your pan.

Season the fish with sea salt and pepper with fresh cracked pepper. Carefully introduce to pan, so you don't splatter yourself. Never add wet meat to a hot skillet. You will get hurt.

Two minutes on each side. This steak was a honker, so an extra half minute went onto the clock before it was flipped. Your steak should look what my son would call "raw." (See photo.) But it will be tender. and flavorful. Remove it from the skillet immediately. Plate, and top with a generous spoonful of salsa. Serve it with a nice, large salad and a vinaigrette dressing.

Crostinis are toasted bread. Thinly slice the baguette, and on each slice, drizzle a tiny bit of olive oil and smear it across the top with the back of your spoon. I put a little basil pesto on top:

Into a food processor add a bouquet of basil, three or so cloves of garlic, a scant handful of pine nuts. They really don't need to be toasted. The sweet pine nut raw is a delicately beautimous thang, y'all. But if you want, carefully pan toss them to toast. Back to the processor, also add at least a half a lime, juiced, salt and a little freshly grated nutmeg. While that whirs away, pour in enough olive oil to make the spread spreadable. Taste. Adjust flavors.
So back to the crostinis--you've spread it with a basil pesto. Add a thin slice of Roma tomato atop each and some shaved Parmesan and, a little tiny tiny pinch of salt, if you don't overdo the cheese. Put in the oven oven at 350 until the cheese is melted and the tomato looks softened. Serve warm or cold.

Don't forget to enjoy a nice glass of wine with your dinner. Lately, the trend is to marry specific wines with specific foods. I say, BAH HUMBUG! Drink what makes you feel happy. We had a wonderful Malbec that was quite cost effective. Salud, amigos!

Monday, September 13, 2010

Seafood Chowder In New Orleans




I've had a pretty easy time finding seafood in the last three cities in which I've lived. But, admittedly, I haven't been in every town in America, so I don't know how easy it might be for you to shop for something fresh from the sea. But if you've never explored, you should.

Look for fresh seafood the way you should look for any fresh food. Look for a quality environment. There should be plenty of fresh ice and fish displayed there and mongers in plain sight. Try to avoid any market where these elements don't exist. If you are purchasing something pre-wrapped, be very cautious. Dates don't always tell the whole story, but if something is out of date, its a big clue as to how often that store is receiving fresh produce. That's what we want, fresh produce.

So, today, I looked for the best deals I could find on a very tight budget and came up with tilapia fillets and shrimp. Unfortunately, there were no fresh clams (fresh clams are actually alive). You can make a chowder out of almost any kind of tender seafood. In other words, not tuna or swordfish. These fish get very tough when overcooked, and your chowder might turn into a leftover to be reheated for lunch tomorrow. Ask your fishmonger for suggestions, if you are at a loss.

Other things you will need are--haha--stock, white wine, and a nice roux.

You may use either a fish stock, a chicken stock, or a vegetable stock. I was limited by what I had on hand, so I used a couple of cans of chicken stock I had in the pantry. And last week when I used a canned crab for a roulade, I saved the juice I squeezed and stored it in a plastic bag in the freezer. That will come in handy for great flavor. Naturally, you may make your own stock. I promise to address the issue of fresh home-made stock in this blog soon.

So, start out this cooking adventure with a roux. Today, we will used a slightly different methodology. We will make enough soup for four. Put about three tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil into a heated pot. Chop half an onion, throw that in, too, seasoning with sea salt, and cook, stirring, until it is opaque. Now be ready to stand at the stove for ten minutes at this point, which means you'll need a clock or timer. Add an equal amount of flour as you used olive oil (here, it will be about three tablespoons). Start stirring it with a wooden spoon, and keep up that action for ten minutes.

We are trying to build the first layer of flavor for that chowder, and you can tell how that progresses by measuring time and looking at the developing color of the flour. It should turn a wonderful golden brown.

Once ten minutes elapsed and you have achieved a nice color, add diced: half a large red bell pepper, half a jalapeno (optional, of course, if you can't take the heat, or more if you love it), and a whole smallish carrot. Stir that continuously for another couple of minutes, taste, and once again lightly seasoning, if necessary. Add cracked black pepper and roughly a tablespoon of finely chopped garlic--more or less as you prefer.

Now for the liquids:

2 cans stock (best if unsalted, and always no msg)
half a bottle of chardonnay or other dry while wine
(if you have a jar of clam juice, use it--I used that 3/4 cup of crab juice I froze)

Into that add two or three large red or white potatoes (not russet--baking potatoes) cubed (diced). For herbs, this combination worked: dill, parsley, and a little thyme. Already the soup should look thick because of your roux, but not too thick because we want our soup to be healthy.

Let the soup cook in a mid-temp range. Don't let it boil away--we want to avoid adding water). But you want the potatoes to cook approximately five minutes. Taste, in case you want to add more garlic, salt, ground black pepper, etc. Let it cook another five minutes or so until the potatoes are tender. This soup should be able to stand alone at this point, so make sure you are happy with the flavor.

Remove your fish, if you are using fish, from the fridge, and lightly salt and pepper the fillets. Drop them whole into the pot. They will break up shortly. Once the fish is broken up, you are close to the end. Add your shell fish now. Rough chop larger pieces, like shrimp or scallops, etc. If you had canned clams, use them, juice and all. If you use fresh shell fish like clams or mussels, you may leave a very few with the shells on, but, make sure they are fully washed, etc. This is more for presentation, but most of your shell fish you should use without shell, so you and your guests don't have deep sea dive and get all messed up just to enjoy your soup. (Go back in the history of this blog to see where I made a Santa Fe chowder with a couple of clams in shell. Looks good, eh?)

If you have a few shells in pot, when they are open, soup is done. If you didn't, check for color and texture, of the shell fish, tasting a bite. Should be tender. Really, you don't want this to cook for more than four minutes or so. Remember the soup is hot, so it will keep cooking.

Lastly, once it is off heat, add approximately a quarter cup milk or so and stir it in. Taste. Be your own judge.

Serve with a nice artisan bread or a salad, and more white wine (or red, who cares?).

This chowder will have a sweet, but black peppery taste (or even hotter if you went with jalapeno or cayenne). And you should be able to taste the garlic (unless you chose to go lightly in that direction--remember you are in control of the vertical and horizontal--this is your chowder). Trust your taste buds. They will never let you down!

Saturday, September 11, 2010

Vegan Heaven - Veggie Stuffed Baked Potatoes








Potatoes sure get a bad rap. The problem has more to do with the way Americans tend to serve them than the vegetable itself. Yes, if you deep fry them, or load 'em with butter and sour cream, they will fall into disgrace. But remember, it's not the potato's fault.

One of my favorite meals is a vegan one--baked stuffed potatoes. And it's a meal you can make while you are busy doing other things. A russet potato makes the best baked potato. All you gotta do is throw that tater into a 375 degree oven. Set a timer for twenty minutes and forget about it.

When time's up, chop any fresh veggies you have in the house with which you feel like stuffing that spud. (Notice in my photo it looks like too many vegetables for one potato, but remember, it will cook down.) Onion should always be used, because they have a contrasting texture, and when cooked are sweet. Today, I used: a quarter of a yellow onion chopped roughly, a clove of garlic minced, a diced Roma tomato, about half a small carrot sliced thinly,and chopped collard greens.

Put these into a casserole dish with some extra virgin olive oil and season. For additional flavor, add a couple of pinches of thyme, red pepper flakes, and cracked black pepper. Then toss them to distribute seasoning and coat the veggies with oil. My final deed is to splash in a tablespoon or two of white wine (of course). This will not only flavor them, but will provide extra moisture which will greatly benefit the potato later.

Place the casserole dish in the oven with the potato. While you're there, assess that tater by squeezing it. Use a hot pad to do this. Set the timer for another fifteen minutes (based on your assessment) and walk away.

When the timer rings, or if it hasn't gone off but the house smells like it's on fire, go check your work. The potato should look plumped out too, and if it does, its really done. Be careful when you squeeze, 'cause it could pop. If the potato is still hard, let it hang in another five minutes.

Use that timer, and keep at it until you get the desired result. All oven temps vary and potato sizes vary, so you have to focus toward the end of bake time.

The veggies should look nicely roasted and collapsed in volume. But by having added that little bit of wine, they should look juicy, too. Let everything cool briefly. Then, when you know you won't burn yourself, put the potato in a personal serving bowl and cut it open. Squeeze the sides and work it generally with a fork.

First the potato will need sea salt and olive oil (I am never afraid to be liberal with olive oil--it is healthy and represents all the fat in this meal. Remember, a substantial number of vitamins are fat soluble.) Then introduce the cooked veggies, working them into the potato flesh. It should not look dry. If it does, add a few drops more olive oil. Taste. Season as necessary.

It seems I also had some Brussel sprouts on hand, and, splitting them into bite sized pieces, I roasted them in their own oiled dish while I was roasting everything else. Season them simply with salt and and black pepper and toss to coat them with the oil. They need nothing else, and you will reap great reward. Now these, you need to keep your eye on, as they will not give up their juices as will onions, and tomatoes. They will be done possibly in less than twenty minutes.

Altogether, it made a satisfying meal, leaving you wanting for little else but maybe a glass of wine. It is amazing how grateful your body is when you eat well.


Wednesday, September 8, 2010

Yucatan Black Bean Salad


My eating methodology is simple--if you consume something heavy (like Chicken Parmesan) one night, better follow it the next with lighter fare. How else might a woman keep her girlish form?

In agreement, my new roommate came up with this idea: buy a can of black beans for a salad. What a great idea!

However, being an aficionada, I find it is in the best interest of the meal itself to cook my own beans. They will be delicious and not as time consuming as one might think.

In the past, I would have made black beans the way I always have in Austin, which is probably a Diane Kennedy recipe. I learned to cook Mexican food at Fonda San Miguel way back in the day, and they adhere to a Northern Mexican tradition. However, here in the Crescent City, my friend, Caroline, showed me a Yucatan recipe with which I instantly fell in love.

Now you may say, why all that work just for a salad, and the answer is simple. Quality.

Out comes the stock pot. Into it, I place the sorted and rinsed black beans and a whole mess a water. I threw in about three bay leaves, some kosher salt, black pepper, about a third of a head of peeled garlic, roughly chopped, and an onion, also roughly chopped. Over the heat it goes, letting it come to a boil. If you are so fortunate as to have epazote on hand, by all means, introduce it to the pot, stem and all. This is a no fuss meal. I also added comino (cumin), extra virgin olive oil, and some red pepper flakes.

But here's a secret from the Yucatan: add equal portions of vinegar (I prefer cider but any vinegar will do) and orange juice. For a big pot of beans, that would be about a third to half a cup each.

Beans, like many other dishes, require acid. I have often made beans with all those ingredients excepting the vinegar and orange juice and have found it necessary to add a little wine. Wine, as you know, is my answer to everything.

But Caroline educated me on a more pure approach--purely Mexican, that is. In the Yucatan, food is often sweet because fruit abounds. Normally, in the Yucatan a bitter orange juice would be the sole additive, but in the absence of this extremely local ingredient, Caroline told me the orange juice/vinegar adaptation fits the bill. Wow, was she right. Muy delicioso.

So that's it. Done deal. Let the beans cook and cook until tender, adding more wates as necessary. I strained out enough for salad and put the rest away for another day.

Then all you have to do is make a quick salad. Use whatever you have on hand, I always say. Today, we used romaine lettuce, endive, carrots, broccoli, cucumber, roma tomatoes, and red bell pepper. The final touch were pickled peppers.

For salad dressing, a basic vinaigrette sufficed, as the beans were so full of flavor. Their richness satisfied the stomach. We felt lightly full and happy.

Mambo Italiano!





I couldn't upload these photos with my previous blog on Chicken Parmesan, but they are definitely part of the story. Had to show you up close the dried Shitaki mushrooms I purchased from a vendor at the Crescent Citiy Flea Market in New Orleans. And under that piece of wax paper is a chicken breast I had to pound out witih a jar of artichokes, since I didn't have something more appropriate. Yes! Go press forth (haha) and be the intrepid chef, undaunted by little things likek a lack of tools. You, too, can make an eye-popping Chicken Parmesan. read my blog from last night for more explicit instructions. But above all, remember, you can't eat well if you don't shop well. Search out the best markets in your community and then frequent them. Try to shop a couple of times a week, if possible, so your foods are as fresh and you get the best deals.

Tuesday, September 7, 2010

Mambo Italiano!



My new roommate, Diane, wanted to eat Chicken Parmesan, and you know I was all about it. Italian is my favorite cuisine! In fact, if you go back far enough in this blog, you will see I've made it before and showed you. So...we started where you should, by shopping.

Back at the home front, I began with a sauce. Please, please, whatever you do,don't use a jar sauce. It doesn't have any wine in it! Nor any other personal touch you wish. If time is an issue, make double the amount, as I have done here, and freeze half of it for later use.

First,chop the mighty Italian trio--onions, peppers (since I'm Texas, today I used jalapenos, seeds and all), and carrots. Yes, carrots. Into a heated sauce pan that has been coated nicely with olive oil. Extra Virgin. Season with sea or kosher salt. Let those sweat till the onions are opaque. Add a bay leaf or two and then garlic--lots of garlic. Don't let the garlic brown! I threw in a half of a large tomato that was just sitting around getting too old for salad. The rule of thumb in the kitchen is manage your food wisely!

Then come the liquids. First a can of tomatoes. Mine were whole, so I had to poke a freshly washed thumb into each over the pot and squeeze them before chopping nicely and then putting them all to pot. Also, I added a small can of tomato sauce and a can of tomato paste, water (about a cup), a can of chicken stock (no msg) and about two and a half cups of red wine (or white, don't fret--just don't use sweet wine).

Now that the liquids are in place, you may add the mushrooms. Any mushrooms will do, but dry add a really great depth of flavor. I used shitaki I got from the Crescent City Flea Market for a song. If you use fresh, chop and add them at the beginning with the onions.

The herbs to add are first and foremost bay leaf and thyme. Then, if you have it, add oregano, basil, oregano, and red pepper flakes. Let that settle and cook till it smells like heaven in your house. At least 30 minutes.

Time to deal with the bird. Use boneless breasts and pound them out thin. I was without any tools, so I improvised with a jar of food. Make it happen. Don't be daunted.

They will need to be coated. So I cut ciabatta bread thinly and put them in a casserole dish with olive oil on the bottom and commited them to the ovenat 250 degrees till they were toasty. But guess what--I used too much olive oil, and they weren't dry enough to make good crumbs. No matter. I will use them but differently, I think. So back to the chicken which still requires a coat. On a plate, I put about a third a cup of flour for the two breasts, salt,thyme, and pepper. I dredged the breasts in that and placed the first piece on a casserole dish with a smidge of olive oil and about a third of a cup of the marinara sauce I just made. Then I used those danged bread crumbs that were too oily, half of them that is, and on top of that, grated mozzarella and then shaved parmesan, and then another ladel of sauce. Then I did it all over again with the second piece of chicken, etc. At the end I added a final layer of mozzarella and parmesan, and drizzled it with olive oil. Into a 375 degree oven till it was nice and brown and bubbly.

Once done, I let it cool and then sprankled it with freshly chopped parsley for color. The eye deserves to be pleased as well as the palate.

I served it with a tiny salad, because it had been a long day, and I was too tired to go full tilt. But remember, the last meal of the day should include fresh vegetables for good digestion.

It was rich and fulfilling but we didn't overindulge, saving the other half of the casserole for another feast. That is another tip--make good use of your kitchen time.

Eat well and live long, friends!

Monday, September 6, 2010

Roulades de Sole, Baby!











As they say in New Orleans, laissez le bon temps roulez! With that thought in mind, and some fillets of sole freshly purchased, I had in mind to roll 'em up with some marvelous ciabatta bread and fresh Italian parsley. Turned out there was a can of crabmeat in the pantry, and you know that had to be included. So...here's how it went down:

Discovered that the food processor wasn't working--bummer. Oh, well, we gots da skills here; no matter. Instead, I sliced the ciabatta bread very thinly and then threw it into a baking dish into which I'd smeared a bit of extra virgin olive oil. That went into a 250 degree oven. I had to rearrange the slices now and then, because the heat draws out moisture on the exterior pieces first, and I wanted it to be evenly dry. Once done, out it came. I used a glass cup to crush the bread into crumbs. Off to the side it went.

Next, I chopped that beautiful flat-leafed parslely fairly fine and set that aside as well.

Other veggies for the filling were a bit of onion, carrot and the last of some crimini mushrooms from the fridge, all finely chopped. I heated a skillet, added olive oil, and then sauteed those three veggies, seasoning them once they hit the heat (to season is to salt--I use kosher or sea salt). Some cracked black pepper seemed like a good plan, so I went with it. Once the onions looked opaque, I introduced the drained crabmeat, making sure it was pretty well squeezed out. We don't want those incredible bread crumbs to get soggy.

Sole is sweet, but I know I wanted to use garlic, so I had to be careful not to overpower the fish. I used a small clove, chopped finely and mashed a little with the flat of my knife, and threw that into the pan, stirring. Here's the important part. I tasted it. Tasting your food as you go is essential. Satisfied, I let it heat together a bit more and then added the bread crumbs, using a wooden spoon to keep it moving. I removed it from the heat, added the parsley, and tasted it again. It needed something slightly acid but sweet to work well with the sole, so I used the juice of a mere wedge of lime--which is sweeter than a lemon.

Now it's time for the fillets. I laid them out, seasoned them slightly, and squeezed a little more lime juice over them before patting the filling firmly onto each fillet, making sure to hold back about a third or so of the crumbs for the finale. It's not too hard a trick to roll up the fillets with their filling. Not at all. Into the same baking dish I'd used for the bread crumbs, I added a bit more olive oil and placed the roulades therein, squeezed a bit more lime juice on top--not too much--don't want the citrus to overpower it all, just liven it up--and sprankled the rest of the bread/crab filling on top of the fish rolls. I wasn't going to waste a bit of it, so when the roulades were nicely covered, I sprankled the rest of the filling right onto the bottom of the dish. Lastly, I drizzled a bit of olive oil on top of roulades, and into a 375 degree oven they went for about 12 minutes. Oven temps differ, so check them after ten minutes, like I did.

The flavor was quite delicate, yet delectable, slightly crispy due to the crumbs, but oh so tender, because they were not overcooked. This is a wonderful dish with a nice summer salad--and you certainly won't add inches to the waitline yet will be wonderfully sated! A slice of cantaloupe was the perfect dessert!

Wednesday, September 1, 2010

Soup's On in The Big Easy!







Not because it's September, and not because it rained two times today, but because I needed to, there's gonna be soup in the house. In fact, I've been thinking about it for days. True, you can make a soup out of just about anything, but a really exquisite soup requires: a good stock (canned okay with me if no MSG or preservatives. I prefer a carton of organic stock, if I can find it), wine (don't skimp on it), and a roux.

Who knew what kind of soup I was going to make until I was in the store and saw what veggies were to be had. I settled on collard greens, parsley, a yellow onion, garlic, and carrots, knowing I would use canned tomatoes. On hand in the fridge was an aging zucchini, which I had to peel to use, but I'm too poor to throw it out. I also purchased some ground turkey and used about a third of the package for this soup, freezing the rest.
So--here's what I came up with--Collard Green and Meatball Soup. Trust me. Gonna love it.

Other ingredients herein I had in the pantry.

In a sauce pot, with water bring to boil a coupla hands each of dried garbanzos and some wonderful dried shitaki mushrooms, along with three cloves of garlic and a bay leaf. Cook them until the beans were tender, adding water as necessary. Make sure you have some fluid left in the pot once the beans are done--about a cup or so will work.

Into that add two cans of chicken broth and a can of diced tomatoes.

Now here's the important part for a good soup. In a saute pan, began a roux. Even though I love pie and I make my crusts with butter, I never cook with butter. Olive oil is my "lipid of choice" as Mario Batali would say. So, once the pan is hot, add olive oil to cover the bottom nicely and sprankle in about a quarter cup of flour (we Texans never "sprinkle"--we "sprankle"). Today I stirred and scraped my roux with a wooden spoon and cooked it until the smoke alarm went off. We can be quite challenged in a tiny kitchen, but our work can be accomplished. I would have preferred to let it cook ten minutes, but God gave me eight, and I ran with it. The roux should look nice and brown; and if you could taste it without frying off your tongue, it would taste nutty.

Into the broth goes the roux. Ya need a roux to give your soup body and dimension. I cannot begin to describe how much more complex and wonderful your soups will become if you take on the challenge of a roux. Less than ten minutes, folks, to make legendary soup.

Now for the wine. Use what you have on hand. About four cups worth. I'm a little poor lately, so I added a coupla a cups of chardonnay, a cup of cabernet sauvignon, and maybe another cup of a zinfandel. The dredges...hahaha. But it works because it is a tomato-mushroom based soup, so it won't turn purple or distress your artistic sensibilities (all cooks are artists).

About now is the time to taste your broth and season appropriately. Canned broths have salt in them unless they expressly say otherwise, so tasting first is important. Grind in some black pepper. Then throw into the pot:

1 carrot, sliced,
1/2 jalapeno minced finely (leaving out half the seeds--or not!!)
4 more cloves minced garlic
1 sliced zucchini

Let it cook just barely at a boil.

Put your cleaned saute pan back to the heat, added olive oil and throw in half a chopped yellow onion and let that sweat till they're opaque.

Now for the meatballs: Chop a small handful of parsley and add it to the ground turkey in a bowl along with salt and pepper. Roll them into tiny meatballs and drop them into the skillet to be browned. Once done, into the soup pot it goes, along with about half the bunch of collard greens, chopped thinly (make sure to give several cross cuts, as the strands can become long and difficult to manage on spoon at the dinner table). For flavor, I gave it some wonderful dried thyme my friend, Diane, provided, but if you have fresh, go for it.

Lastly, it seemed right to me to add a handful and a half of cracked wheat. I wanted the soup to be hearty, because it was all I could afford to serve tonight.

Taste, season as necessary. Then, call the peasants to dinner! The flavors of the wine, roux, mushrooms, and garlic roll delightfully over the tongue. You will each require a second bowl. We sure did!